There’s something about riding a motorbike. You’re completely open to the world, at the mercy of the wind smacking your face, and at the will of the road under you. You feel everything that moves past you.
Now imagine this on winding roads, surrounded by pointy green triangles of mountains, sitting on wide lush terraces. You breathe in the mountains and breathe out adrenaline. This is Ha Giang.
Ha Giang sits on the northern tip of Vietnam, the last province before you hit the border of China. Native minority communities still reside throughout this area, and land overruns people here. It’s an escape from noise. Birds are the loudest sound you hear. Birdsongs filling my ears was quite shocking after being accustomed to the noise of civilization for so long. Ha Giang, to me, was escape.
Besides the magic of nature over man, Ha Giang is like jumping into the world of Lord of the Rings or scenes from King Kong. Your surroundings are unreal and otherworldly. How did that giant rock get there, right on the edge of that massive mound of green? And what about that tree? Then, your path crosses through small villages and towns, and you’re reminded that you’re in the incredible country of Vietnam, where foreign vegetables are sold in baskets, water buffalos are hot commodities, and anything and everything is balanced on a motorbike.
This slowly growing tourist destination can be tricky if you’re not a confident motorbike driver, or if you’re a motorbike newbie. But this doesn’t have to be a problem. While being a confident driver in the video game chaos of Hanoi, I would choose passenger over driver when it came to steep inclines and rocky roads in the mountains. Luckily, I knew how to solve this problem.
My friend Cuong told me about Positive Tours, his own tour company, crafted for a real experience in the most beautiful place in Vietnam. Positive Tours takes quickly whisks you out of Hanoi – much faster than a local bus – and into the city of Ha Giang, where Cuong’s office sports a collection of motorbikes to choose from. You can drive yourself if you’d like, and get a crash course from Cuong on how the bike works and what to expect up in the mountain. Or you can be driven by one of Cuong’s comrades, men from the minority villages you visit in the mountains.
After being used to the go go go mentality of the streets of Hanoi, it took me back a bit when realizing that was not the pace of our motorbike tour. We took it slow and easy, just cruising through the scenic drive. And that was the point. It wasn’t a race. We were here to enjoy the drive, feel comfortable on the tricky roads and, of course, take in the massive landscapes around us. For the first time ever, I didn’t want to get off my motorbike. It was a never-ending amusement ride.
While I enjoyed the ride, my butt did get sore. But Cuong knew the significance of booty breathers. He waited for a good break spot and let us stretch out a bit, snap some photos, and soak in the new piece of scenery in front of us. You’ll be surprised by how much the landscape changes throughout the trip. It just keeps getting better…and better.
What’s special about Positive Tours is that you have the opportunity to understand the communities you pass by. Cuong looks for an authentic, quiet experience away from other tourists, with a homestay. He’s well educated on the culture and history in Ha Giang, so you’ll learn a thing or two about the communities you drive by, and the beautifully clothed people you see.
My three days in Ha Giang were the most well-fed three days I’ve ever had in Vietnam. I love food and, luckily, so does Cuong. You know you’re in the right hands when your tour guide tells you he looks forward to every meal of the day. Cuong always knew exactly what restaurant to take us to and exactly what to order. All we had to do was sit down and plates of Vietnamese dishes, family style, were placed in front of our heart-shaped eyes. I knew this experience was not something I’d have without someone who knew what and how to order.
When there’s so much to see in Vietnam, it’s hard to choose where you want to invest your time into. But if you are looking for adventure, landscapes that are unique to Vietnam, a glimpse into culture outside the city, and authentic food, Ha Giang rises to the top.
Shoot Cuong a message over Positive Tours on Facebook or give him a call at 84-162-647-8338. He has plenty of other tour opportunities on his website and has good advice if you’re looking into other options.
Check out my adventure with Positive Tours here: